Posts Tagged ‘no-till’

Rise up

I have a confession to make. After extolling the virtues of no-till gardening in my last post, I found myself on Tuesday facing an expanse of garden beds almost indistinguishable from the weeds surrounding them.

Overgrown beds

Last fall. A cover of oats is growing in the bed on the left, "and the green grass grows all around."

The best option would have been to smother the weeds with layers of cardboard, topped by a few inches of compost  and mulch, but I did not have those materials on hand.  So I broke up the sod with the rototiller, thus ensuring the even distribution of quackgrass roots throughout the entire area. I will attempt to control the grass by sowing several rounds of quick-growing cover crops, but it is going to take some time to bring the beds back to productivity.

Tilled and sown with oats

Tilled and sown with oats

I mention this to illustrate a hidden pitfall of what is otherwise a highly recommended gardening practice – making raised beds. Raised beds warm quickly in the spring, provide good drainage, and allow the gardener to build high quality soil without compaction. The beds can be constructed directly on top of existing lawn, and they may be filled with clean compost and soil in places where the underlying soil is questionable. One of the most popular gardening techniques, Square Foot Gardening developed by Mel Bartholomew, adapts perfectly to the confined footprint of raised beds by laying out and planting each square foot individually.

Raised bed construction seems to inspire creative reuse of materials. Here are a few imaginative ones.

Woven willow branches for tall raised beds

Woven willow branches for tall raised beds

Wine bottle wall

Wine bottle wall. The sun warms the bottles, which then discharge warm air into the soil.

Truck farm?

Is this what they mean by "truck farm?"

So, what's not to love about raised beds? Just this – it can be difficult to keep weeds clear along the inside and outside edges of the beds, especially if the weeds are perennials that propagate via runners. You can see the remains of a raised bed and the infestation of grass around it in the photo at the top of this post. If you decide on raised beds, either plan to keep the paths and area around the beds heavily mulched (wood chips are a good choice for this), or expect a certain amount of maintenance time spent pulling weeds along the inside edge of the bed. Don't let the grass get ahead of you the way that I did!

PS. Do you have raised beds in your garden, "up-cycled" or otherwise? Post a photo on the facebook page.

The tilling of Tull

Before you pull out the ol' rototiller this spring, pause a moment to reflect on Jethro Tull.

No, not that one.

This one

. Jethro Tull 1674-1740

Tull revolutionized British agriculture in the 18th century with his inventions: a seed drill that ensured uniform planting of seeds, and  a horse-drawn hoe. His machines solved challenges of his day – erratic germination of field crops, competition from weeds- and their design still influences modern agriculture. Buoyed by the success of his methods, he expounded in Horse-hoeing Husbandry his belief that best practices include pulverizing the soil to release nutrients, and withholding manure and other organic matter .

horse hoe

Tull's horse hoe

Turns out, his theories weren't quite as useful as his patents. We  know now that adding organic matter improves soil structure, supports a diverse soil ecology, and supplies plant nutrients. And, that repeatedly tearing up the soil through deep plowing can destroy soil health, leading to the kind of conditions that created the tragic "Dust Bowl" of the 1930s.

Truck on Colorado road, 1937

Truck on Colorado road, 1937

No-till

By now, you might be looking at that rototiller in the back of the shed with some suspicion, but what to do about preparing the garden this spring? If you are lucky enough to be able to time travel, you will have planted a winter-kill cover crop (I use oats for this) in October, or will have covered your beds with a mulch of straw, grass clippings, or leaves. Now you simply pull back the mulch and sow seeds, replacing the mulch after the seeds have sprouted. For the cover cropped areas, you can trim the stalks and plant transplants directly into the bed, relying on the remaining residue to retain water and suppress weeds.

Scuffle and stirrup hoeOn bare beds, a few passes with a sharp scuffle hoe or stirrup hoe to sever young weeds from their roots, followed by smoothing with a steel rake, might be all you need if the weeds are mostly annuals. Of course, once tough perennials like quackgrass have gotten established you'll be working a bit harder to yank them out.  If a bed is so overrun with this type of weed that tilling is necessary it is a good idea to quickly sow a thick cover crop after tilling to suppress weed growth – for example, buckwheat sown during the summer grows vigorously enough to out-compete weeds, but it will need to be tilled again before it flowers to keep the buckwheat from reseeding.