Ottawa’s charming back porch

The ferry nearing the dock in Quyon, Quebec with vehicles from Fitzroy Harbour, Ontario. Photo: James Morgan

The back porch or entrance of any home is usually more informal. Where I grew up, it was where neighbours and friends arrived. Sometimes they knocked. Our bell didn’t usually work, so most people just walked in and shouted hello. The northwest corner of Ottawa has that same feeling. Fitzroy Harbour, Ontario and the Renfrew County line at Arnprior are the far reaches of the city limits. They couldn’t be more different than Bank Street or the By Ward Market.

Elvis in Quyon, Quebec. Photo: James Morgan

A ferry connects Quyon, Quebec with Fitzroy Harbour. Quyon and the surrounding area of Pontiac County is a cultural exception in Quebec. Most people who live there speak English first and are of Irish or German heritage. The ferry is owned and operated by the McColgan family. Until 2016, it was diesel powered. Now it’s electric and powered by giant rechargeable batteries and is guided across the Ottawa River by a large cable. The ferry is a popular crossing because there are no bridges across the river between Ottawa and the Chenaux power dam near Renfrew, Ontario. Other landmarks in Quyon include the long-operating tavern at Gavan’s Hotel and the large mural of Elvis Presley on the wall of a building advertising the annual country music jam-fest.

A friendly, gentle deer at Fitzroy Provincial Park. Photo: James Morgan

Fitzroy Harbour is a quiet but charming place. The main attraction is Penny’s Fudge Factory. Inside fudge of all flavors and varieties is made using wonderfully large amounts of butter and cream. It’s a perfect treat to enjoy when camping or relaxing by the river nearby at Fitzroy Provincial Park, or walking the trails at Morris Island Conservation Area. The provincial park has a fine swimming area and good view of the Chats Falls power dam. The Carp and Ottawa Rivers meet in the park, surrounded by big pines and oaks, and deer that are remarkably unafraid of people.

The assembly line at Penny’s Fudge Factory. Photo: James Morgan

Just up the road and over the line in Renfrew County are what many regard as the best French fries in Canada. Wes’ Chip Wagon in Arnprior has been serving up the golden gems since 1960. The 1956 Ford truck that originally pulled the mobile wagon is still next to the stand with flat tires and a painted-over windshield. Wes’ does it simple. They only sell fries and soda pop, nothing else. There’s always a lineup and an employee can usually be seen in the back, peeling potatoes. Arnprior is a gateway to the culture and heritage of the upper Ottawa Valley. The town museum highlights the history of logging and other industries in the town where the mighty Madawaska River enters the mightier Ottawa.

A lunchtime lineup at Wes’ Chip Wagon. Photo: James Morgan

Quyon, Fitzroy Harbour, and Arnprior are close to the bustle and ceremony of Canada’s capital, but they’re calming and comfortable places to relax and appreciate a slower pace of life. The friendly surroundings make it seem like a visit on the back porch or a chat with a friend who always enters through the back door.

Mom helping Annabelle and Jimmy get ready for a scavenger hunt at the Arnprior Museum. Photo: James Morgan

Tags: Arnprior, canada, Fitzroy Harbour, Ontario, Quebec, Quyon